Notes
Slide Show
Outline
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Fleas & Ticks
  • April 20, 2006
    Brought to you by:
    The Brookside Barkery and Bath
    &
    Acupuncture and Herbs For Pets
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Fleas & Ticks
  • The Bugs
    • What they are
    • Where they live
    • How they cause problems
    • What to do when you find them on your pet
    • What you can do to prevent them
    • What you can do to kill them
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The Bugs
  • Fleas
    • Insects
    • Susceptible to chemicals (except pupae)
    • Repellents work
    • Immune system strength is a factor
    • Diet is a factor
    • Live weeks or months without eating
    • Males feed
  • Ticks
    • Arachnids (8 legged adults)
    • Resistant to chemicals (much harder to kill)
    • Repellents don’t work
    • Immune system strength not as important (some)
    • Diet not as important
    • Live months to years without eating
    • Males don’t feed
      • -they just breed
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Fleas first
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Fleas 4 Stages
  • Adult
    • Hungry Feeds on blood 2-3 meals/day
    • On the warm blooded host most of their adult life
    • Females lay as many as 800-2,000 eggs (15-40/day)
  • Eggs
    • Laid on the pet
    • Fall off into bedding/carpet/cracks/yard
  • Caterpillar/Larvae
    • Consumes organic matter (flea dirt, crumbs, etc.)
    • flea caterpillar makes a little cocoon
  • Pupa
    • Impervious to insecticides
    • Wait many weeks for a host to come near
    • Senses vibration or movement to induce hatch



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Diseases & Problems Fleas Cause
  • Flea Allergy Dermatitis
    • Infections
    • Itching
    • Hairloss/Hyperkeratosis/Hyperpigmentation
    • Irritation/suffering
  • Tapeworms (intestinal parasite)
    • Fleas are one of the possible intermediate hosts
    • Rabbits are the other possible intermediate host
      • Rule out: Indoor animals with tapeworms have had fleas!
  • Anemia (low PCV-red cell count)
    • Severe infestation
    • Large numbers of fleas
    • Long term infestation
  • Bubonic Plague


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Flea Health Issues
  • Problems are relatively minor
  • Problems are relatively easy to solve
  • Fleas are fairly wimpy insects-easy to kill
  • Many of the common treatments are too strong for routine use
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What Not To Do If You Find A Flea
  • Don’t freak out
  • Don’t panic
  • Don’t run out and buy Frontline
  • Don’t burn down the house
  • Save the “BIG GUNS” for later


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What To Do If You Find A Flea
(chill)
  • Kill the flea
  • Check for more on that pet
  • Check for more on the other pets
  • If you find more, kill them
  • Wait a few days or a few weeks to determine
    • If there is a problem
    • How serious is the problem.  There is plenty of time to decide if you need to (back one slide)


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The Bugs
  • Fleas
    • Insects
    • Susceptible to chemicals (except pupae)
    • Repellents work
    • Immune system strength is a factor
    • Diet is a factor
    • Live weeks or months without eating
    • Males feed
  • Ticks
    • Arachnids (8 legged adults)
    • Resistant to chemicals (much harder to kill)
    • Repellents don’t work
    • Immune system strength not as important (some)
    • Diet not as important
    • Live months to years without eating
    • Males don’t feed
      • -they just breed
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Ticks 4 Stages
 Lifecycle can take from 1-7 years
Hard Ticks and Soft Ticks very different

  • Eggs
  • Larvae
    • 6 legs
    • Take a blood meal and molt
  • Nymph
    • 8 legs
    • Take a blood meal and molt
  • Adult
    • 8 legs
    • Female feeds, lays thousands of eggs and dies
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Ticks
  • Hard Ticks “Ixodidae”
  • Brown Dog Ticks
  • Lone Star Ticks
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Different Life Cycles










  • Two hosts/two years
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Soft Ticks  “Argasidae”
  • Female deer tick with eggs
  • Adult deer tick
  • Questing
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Soft Ticks  “Argasidae”
  • Egg hatches to a six legged larva
  • Takes a blood meal from a host
  • Molts to the first nymphal stage
  • Multiple (up to 7) nymphal stages
  • Final molt to the adult stage
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Soft Ticks  “Argasidae”

  • feed several times during each life stage
  • females lay multiple small batches of eggs
  • entire life cycle lasts several years
  • resistance to starvation-can survive for many years without a blood meal


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Soft Tick Life Cycle
Deer Tick
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Diseases transmitted by ticks
  • Tick Paralysis Neurotoxin, a chemical produced by the tick itself
  • Bacteria-
    • Lyme Disease (Borrelia bergdorferi, a spirochete)
    • Tick Borne Relapsing Fever (Borrelia hermsii , a spirochete)
    • Tularemia
  • Rickettsiae-
    • Erlichia
    • Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever
  • Protozoa
    • Babesia
  • Viruses
    • Tick Fever (RNA Virus)
    • Tick-Borne Encephalitis Virus TBEV
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 Tick Health Issues
  • Problems are relatively major


  • Problems are difficult to solve


  • Many of the common treatments are necessary and dangerous
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What To Do If You Find A Tick
(Chill)
  • Kill the tick
  • Check for more on that pet
  • Check for more on the other pets
  • If you find more, kill them, chill
  • Wait and determine
    • If you have a tick problem
    • How serious is the problem.  There is plenty of time to decide if you need to (forward one slide)


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Typical Control Measures
What most regular veterinarians recommend
  • Chemical
    • Pet
      • IGR
      • Sprays
      • Powders
      • Shampoos
      • Dips/wipes
      • Spot-ons
    • Household
      • Bombs
      • Sprays
    • Yard
      • Spray
      • Granules
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IGRs, Sprays/Dips, Spot-ons, and Collars
  • IGR (Insect Growth Regulators)
  • Sprays/Dips
    • Pyrethrins (Adams, Vet-Kem, Etc.)
    • Organophosphates (Paramite Dip)
  • Spot-ons
    • Advantage/Advantix
    • Frontline/Frontline Plus
    • Revolution
  • Collars
    • Flea collars (pyrethrin, permethrin, organo-phosphate)
    • Tick Collars (Preventick-amitraz)

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IGR
  • Insect Growth Regulators/Lufenuron (Program), a non-pesticide
  • Methoprene (Precor)
  • Pyriproxyfen (Nylor, Archer)
    • Don’t kill adult fleas or pupa
      • Adult fleas will still bite the animal
      • Will not stop flea allergies
    • More effective when mixed with an adulticide
    • Not as toxic as adulticides (IGRs are of negligible hazard to humans, pets, and the environment)
    • Rarely cause any medical issues
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Systemic Pesticides
You need to know what you are putting on your pet
    • Advantage/Advantix
      • Imidacloprid is a pesticide that kills adult fleas on contact (100 percent of adult fleas are killed on the pet within 24 hours.)
    • Frontline/Frontline Plus
      • Fipronil is a pesticide that kills adult fleas up to three months when applied to dogs and a month or more on cats.  Ticks are killed for a month or more on dogs and cats.
    • Revolution
      • Selemectin is a spot application flea killer with heart worm preventative
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Effective? Yes
Safe???
  • Despite label claims of safety and efficacy, I have to recommend my clients rethink topical parasite control.
  • Toxicity (tongue and pulse)
  • Seizures
  • Immune system disorders
  • Cancer
  • Internal medical disorders
  • Topical irritation and skin damage


  • I DO NOT RECOMMEND MONTHLY APPLICATION OF SYSTEMIC PARASITE TREATMENTS!!!
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Natural
    • Pet
    • Strong Immune System
        • Diet/food additives
        • Supplements
          • Colostrum/IgG
          • Anti-oxidants
          • Power Mushrooms
          • Vitamins
      • Avoid Exposure
    • Regular grooming
    • cut their hair
    • flea comb daily
    • baths/shampoo
      • Repellants/Botanicals
        • Essential Oils
        • Parasite Dust
  • Home
  • Diatomaceous Earth
  • Boric Acid
  • Parasite Dust
  • Yard
  • Nematodes
  • Keep mowed short
  • No piles of sand or gravel
  • Pick up debris
  • Fence yard-stop roaming
  • Traps
  • Flea-light bulb over shallow pan of soapy water
  • Tick-heated, cloth covered box.  Burn the cloth daily.
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Rules to protect your pet
  • Use natural remedies first and constantly
    • Diet/food additives/immune enhancers/ repellents
    • Nematodes/Boric Acid/Diatomaceous Earth


  • Try safer chemicals first (IGR, pyrethrins, Preventick collar)


  • Stay out of infested areas during high risk seasons


  • Don’t freak out and make quick decisions.  Postpone systemic and spot on therapies to use as a last resort in the face of infestation-NOT THE FIRST LINE OF DEFENSE
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Preventing parasites
    • Start early-don’t wait for infestation
    • Use multiple products with different activities
    • Stay on top of it-daily tick check-daily flea comb
      • Put your glasses on
      • Get under a good light source
      • Put your hands on your pet
    • Check frequently for infestations
    • Know what you are looking for
    • Watch for the secondary signs
      • Itching from fleas
      • Hair loss or damage to coat or skin
      • Flea dirt (know what it is, look for it)
      • Sores or bumps from ticks




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Success defined
  • If you use natural methods to try to manage fleas and tick and you end up with some before the end of the season, you have not failed.


  • No chemicals would be ideal.


  • Success in managing fleas and ticks is when LESS chemicals are used
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Put an end to the itch!
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Thank You
  • Your Wellness Connection
  • Brookside Barkery & Bath
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Next Month’s Lecture Topic
  • May 18 — Skin & Coat – Dr. Faris
    • Itchy flaky skin
    • Dermatitis
    • Oils added to diet
    • How often to wash your pet
    • Shampoo’s & ingredient to avoid
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Beneficial Nematodes
  • What Are Beneficial Nematodes and How Do They Work?
  • Beneficial Nematodes are microscopic worm-like organisms that live in the soil.
  • They are parasites of pests who have larvae and nymph stages in the soil.
  • Nematodes enter the larvae via mouth, anus, respiratory openings, or body openings and start to feed. This causes specific bacteria to emerge from the intestinal tract of the nematode. Once inside, they feed on the insect and release toxic bacteria that produce lethal blood poisoning.
  • These spread through the bloodstream inside the insect and multiply very rapidly. The bacteria convert host tissue into products, which can easily be taken up by nematodes. The larvae nymph die within a few days and change from a white to a light yellow color. Inside the dead insect, the nematodes multiply. As soon as the nematodes are in the infectious stage, they will exit the dead insect and immediately start searching for a new host.
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How Do I Choose the Right Nematodes?

  • The table below gives an explanation of the two varieties of nematodes we sell. Choose the correct nematode by determining if your pest is a surface soil pest or an under the soil pest such as white grubs or a root zone pest.


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Types of Nematodes
  • Nematode VarietyUse to ControlSteinernema carpocapsae: Controls soil surface larvae pests in yards, gardens and farms.
  • Most Common: Flea larvae, caterpillar larvae, cutworms, sod webworms and termites Others: American cockroach, ants, armyworm, artichoke plume moth, Asian cockroach, beet armyworm, black cutworm, bluegrass weevil, codling moth, corn earworm, cotton bollworm, cucumber beetle, fall armyworm, fly larvae, fruit fly, German cockroach, leaf miners, mole crickets, tobacco budworm, wireworms
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Frequently Asked Questions
  • How are Nematodes Shipped?
    Nematodes are shipped in an easily dissolved clay formulation that you mix with water. The solution can be applied using a watering can, hose end sprayer, backpack or pump sprayer or through irrigation or misting systems.
  • When Should They Be Released?
    Release early in the morning or pre-dusk when temperatures are cooler and the sun is not so bright.
  • Should The Soil Be Moist After The Nematode Application?
    The soil should be moist at time of application and lightly watered immediately after application. After application, regular watering of the treated area will provide sufficient moisture. Generally speaking, water every 3-4 days if rainfall does not occur.
  • What's the Application Rate?
    The Garden Size of Bio-Pests-B-Gone™ contains 10 million nematodes and will effectively treat approximately 3,200 sq. ft. The Farm Size contains 50 million nematodes and will effectively treat 1/2 to 1 full acre of treatable surface depending upon level of infestation. Make releases every 2-3 weeks or until infestation subsides.
  • How Long Can Nematodes Be Kept Before Use?
    Bio-Pests-B-Gone™ beneficial nematodes can be stored in a refrigerator for up to two months (do not freeze!).
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Frequently Asked Questions
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Frequently Asked Questions
  • How Long Does It Take To See Results?
    In general 3-7 days for caterpillars such as cutworms, armyworms, sod sebworms. For grubs and weevils such as Japanese beetle, black vine weevil and billbugs feeding stops within 3 days with maximum control occurring over 2-4 weeks. Nematodes desintegrate from the inside out. You will not see dead insect bodies as you would with a chemical knockdown.


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Frequently Asked Questions
  • Will Nematodes Live Through The Winter?
    In general, harsh winter weather in most parts of the country almost guarantees a significant decline in the population of the nematodes. In most cases, nematodes just like insects will become dormant during cold weather. Any survivors would be few in number to provide adequate insect control. If your insect pest returns the following year, another application may be necessary.


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Frequently Asked Questions


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Life Cycle of a Nematode
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What is Diatomaceous Earth?
  • It is a non-toxic, safe substance made up from crushed fossils of freshwater organisms and marine life. Crushed to a fine powder and observed through a microscope, the particles resemble bits of broken glass. Deadly to any insect and completely harmless to animals, fish, fowl or food. Most insects have a waxy outer shell covering their bodies, INSECT STOP scratches through this shell causing the insect to dehydrate leading to eventual death.
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BEWARE OF IMPOSTERS!
  • Diatomaceous Earth does have imposters.
  • Make sure you get FOOD GRADE
  • Do Not buy at Lawn & Garden Stores
  • Do Not buy at your Pool Supply Store
  • FOOD GRADE FOSSIL FLOUR ONLY
  • Perma-Guard D-20 Insecticide
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How Does It Work?
  • Diatomaceous Earth mode of action for insect and parasite control is strictly mechanical. The microscopically sharp edges contact the insect or parasite, and pierce their protective coating, so they soon dehydrate and die. The larvae is affected in the same way. This makes Diatomaceous Earth an excellent and totally natural control, with no indicating of mechanical or chemical damage to the animal tissue. It can be used as a dust for fleas, lice and other external pests by rubbing into the coat of the animal.
  • Both internal and external parasite and insect pest control will result in improvement in health, appearance and behavior, as well as assimilation of feed, which means improved weight gain and lowered feed cost.
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Applications
  • Perma-Guard, Feed Grade Diatomaceous Earth
  • Perma-Guard Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth is totally organic and safe. It contains less than 1% percent of Crystal & Silicon. Some of the uses for Diatomaceous Earth include; household pets, gardens, flower beds, field crops, grain storage, and livestock feeding.  Diatomaceous Earth is Mother Nature's product with no harm to the environment, pets or to people. Diatomaceous Earth is not an earth, it is the fossilized remains of microscopic shells created by one celled plants called DIATOMS. Diatomaceous Earth kills by physical action, not chemical, by puncturing the insect’s exoskeleton and absorbing its body fluids, thus posing no harm to warm-blooded life. Moreover, on any surface, these natural pesticide products have a remarkable repellency factor. As long as it is present, insects tend to stay away, making a serious infestation unlikely. Also, the more it is used, the more an environment is created that tends to make insects feel unwelcome.
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Application
  • Dogs 1 T. per day in daily ration for dogs over 55 lbs., 1 tsp. per day in ration for small dogs and puppies, rub powder at full strength into the coat for fleas and sprinkle on bedding. Cats 1 tsp. per daily ration, rub at full strength into coat for fleas and sprinkle on bedding
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Perma-Guard Insecticde
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Boric Acid Organic Flea Control
  • Kills fleas in the adult and larvae stage. Also controls cockroaches, ants, and silverfish. Contains active ingredients of 100% boric acid.

    Apply directly on carpets where pets frequently traffic or sleep at the rate of 1.5 pounds per 150 square feet. Work powder deep into fibers and mat. Allow powder to remain for a period of three weeks to achieve maximum flea control in carpets. Reapply if necessary. (Use indoors or outdoors)


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Pyrethrum Herbal Dog Powder
  • Pyrethrum-only herbal powder for both dogs and cats to control fleas and ticks.

    Application: Generously rub into pet’s fur to protect and control ticks and fleas.
  • $9.00
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Rechargeable Flea Collar – Dog/Cat

  • Target pests: fleas and ticks. Keep harmful pests away naturally with this sturdy cotton flea collar. Collar comes with enough botanical Shooo! for 12 recharges.
  • Shipping Weight: 0.5 lbs.

    $6.49


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Yeast & Garlic Bits
  • Pets love them! - YUM, YUM. Target pests: repels fleas and ticks.
  • These delicious, healthy food supplements also repel fleas. You won’t smell the garlic, but the fleas will.
  • 1.1 lb Bits $7.00
  • NaturVet $
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Herbal Flea Spray & Powder
  • Natural combination of Rosemary and Cedar Oil which repels fleas and flies while deodorizing with a fresh herbal fragrance. Herbal Flea Spray can be used on pets and pet bedding.

    Herbal Flea Spray can be used on dogs and cats over the age of six weeks. It will not interfere with other spot-on products such as Advantage® (trademark of Bayer)

  • Ingredients:

    ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:
    Rosemary (.32%), and Cedar Oil (.32%.


  • 16 oz  - $12.99 – Spray
  • 4 oz - $9.99  - Powder
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Thank  You!